Large sections of the shelves at the Colton Market sit empty or underutilized. What is available consists primarily of grab-and-go items like soft drinks, alcohol, chips, and cookies. The closest selection of fresh produce and meat can be found about nine miles away in Molalla. Colton, an unincorporated community of about 5,000 residents located 35 miles southeast of Portland, is emblematic of what’s missing in many rural communities in Oregon and across the United States: healthy food. While Colton has an elementary, middle, and high school, U.S. Post Office, multiple churches, a fire department, a restaurant, and even a drive-thru coffee shop, you’d be hard pressed to find fixings for a family dinner.
In the past, country stores served as vital lifelines for small communities, offering not only essential food and household products, but also serving as community-gathering spots and places for the dissemination of information and news. However, over the past few decades, many rural areas across the United States have experienced a sharp decline in the number of these stores. Based on metrics by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, large tracts of Oregon alone are located in so-called “food deserts,” which for rural areas refers to low-income tracts located more than 10 miles from a supermarket or large grocery store. Adding to the decline is the pressure against chain stores such as Dollar General.
Of course, exceptions exist. For example, M. Crow in Lostine, Oregon has filled gaps in local service and products on a multifaceted plane, fulfilling the role of general store, brewery, wine maker, restaurant, pizzeria, clothing manufacturer, and ceramic studio. Similarly, McKenzie General Store is touted as the most charming general store in Oregon and a travel destination.
The revitalization of rural communities may be on the horizon as states are looking at ways to remedy food deserts, such as by providing grants (see Iowa, North Dakota, and Nebraska). On the federal side, Senate Bill 5335, the Rural Prosperity and Food Security Act of 2024, seeks to invest in local and regional food systems, among other measures to support agricultural system.
Not relying on legislation alone, some rural communities have developed creative solutions tailored to the specific needs and resources of individual communities. One of the most effective models for restoring grocery services in rural areas has been the development of community-owned co-ops. These stores are collectively owned and operated by local residents, and they often focus on providing high-quality, locally-sourced products.
Another strategy for sustaining rural grocery stores is to partner with local farmers and food producers. By sourcing products locally, grocery stores can reduce their reliance on expensive supply chains while simultaneously supporting regional agriculture. Because consumers are increasingly interested in buying fresh, sustainable food, this model sounds like a win-win all around.
